"With the double-breasted coat, the single-breasted waistcoat is the rule and to repeat the crossing of lines twice in one suit is an entirely unreasonable exaggeration. With the single-breasted coat, the double-breasted waistcoat may be indicated as the fashion of the immediate future. Such double-breasted waistcoats should be cut straight across and not in the half-pointed shield shape which is no more than a compromise and a mode of transition."
Another 1923 London Letter can be read here
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